If you own a home in Utah, sprinkler winterization is one of the most important things you can do for your irrigation system each fall. A proper sprinkler blowout can cost a little over $100, while an improperly winterized system can leave you replacing valves, filters, backflow preventers, pipes, or dealing with much more serious water damage.
At Storm Sprinklers, we have winterized hundreds of sprinkler systems throughout Utah County and Salt Lake County over the last three years. We also make a significant amount of our spring repair revenue fixing systems that were never winterized or were winterized incorrectly.
The good news is that sprinkler winterization is not complicated when it is done correctly. The important part is understanding how your system works, removing water from the right places, and using equipment that can actually move enough air through the system.
TL;DR: Utah Sprinkler Winterization
We recommend that most Utah homeowners winterize in late September, rather than waiting until the first freeze is already in the forecast. Shutting your sprinkler water off is not the same as winterizing the system, and automatic drains are helpful but should not be treated as foolproof.
A proper winterization should clear the main line and individual zones, properly winterize the backflow preventer, drain vulnerable sections of the main line, and leave the system shut down correctly for winter. Professional equipment also matters. A high-CFM compressor can clear a system far more effectively than a small homeowner air compressor.
Most importantly, make sure your irrigation shutoff valve actually works. We have seen failed shutoff valves contribute to serious freeze damage. Check city watering and shutoff dates if you are unsure when your area typically stops irrigating.
When Should You Winterize Sprinklers in Utah?
We recommend that most homeowners along the Wasatch Front winterize their sprinkler systems in late September. For a dedicated look at freeze dates, 32°F risk, and what to do if a freeze is already coming, read when to winterize sprinklers in Utah.
A lot of people try to squeeze every possible day out of their irrigation system and wait until freezing temperatures are already in the forecast. We generally don't think the small amount of additional fall watering is worth the risk.
By late September, nights in northern Utah are already cooling off significantly. Lawns also need dramatically less water than they do during July and August. In many cases, homeowners are watering about once a week or less by that point. If an established lawn gets shut down slightly early, it may simply begin going dormant earlier. Our lawn sprinkler scheduling guide covers how little water most Utah lawns need as nights cool.
The bigger issue is that Utah weather is unpredictable.
In 2025, we continued winterizing systems well into November before the first major freezing period. In 2024, freezing weather arrived around the second week of October. There is no reliable way to know in September which kind of fall you are going to get.
For that reason, we would rather have a homeowner's sprinkler system safely winterized a few weeks early than have them scrambling to find an appointment the night temperatures are expected to drop below freezing. Book a winterization week online before the fall rush fills up.
Do You Really Need to Winterize Your Sprinkler System in Utah?
Yes.
One of the most common things homeowners tell us is, “I already shut my sprinkler water off.”
Unfortunately, shutting off the water supply is not the same thing as winterizing the irrigation system. There can still be water sitting inside sprinkler lines, valve manifolds, filters, backflow preventers and other components.
We see damage from this every year.
Cracked valve manifolds, broken filters and freeze-damaged backflow preventers are particularly common. In fact, once temperatures start reaching around 32 degrees, we begin getting calls from homeowners with damaged backflows.
A brief freeze does not guarantee that everything in your sprinkler system will crack. Underground components are also better insulated than exposed ones. But if water is trapped inside a rigid irrigation component and freezes, it expands and can create enough pressure to crack the component.
What Happens If You Don't Winterize?
Sometimes the damage is fairly minor. You may discover a cracked fitting or leaking valve when the system is turned back on in the spring.
Other times, the consequences are much more expensive.
One of the worst cases we have seen involved a property where the irrigation shutoff valve was not functioning properly. The system was never winterized, freezing temperatures arrived, and the valve manifold cracked.
The resulting leak flooded the homeowner's basement.
Between replacing the damaged valves, installing a new backflow preventer, replacing the irrigation shutoff and repairing the basement damage, the total cost was around $15,000.
That is an extreme example, but it illustrates why we recommend treating winterization as routine maintenance rather than something worth gambling on. If a shutoff will not isolate the yard, see our stop and waste valve repair page before freeze weather arrives.
What Does a Proper Sprinkler Winterization Include?
The exact process varies slightly depending on how the irrigation system was designed, but the first step is always shutting off the sprinkler water supply.
For many Utah homes, that shutoff is either located inside the basement or outside near the water meter. Some outdoor systems use a stop-and-waste valve that is designed to drain automatically when the water is shut off.
One thing homeowners often overlook is whether the shutoff valve actually works. We have encountered systems where someone believed the water was turned off, but the valve was still allowing water into the irrigation system.
Indoor shutoff valves may also require the pipe downstream of the valve to be drained. If your system does not have a drain in the correct location, installing one can make future winterizations much safer and easier.
Winterizing the Backflow Preventer
On sprinkler systems connected to culinary water, the backflow preventer is one of the most important components to protect. It is also one of the most vulnerable because it is commonly located above ground.
Different backflow preventers have different manufacturer requirements, so the exact winterization procedure can vary. In general, test cocks need to be opened, trapped water needs to be drained, and certain ball valves are typically left partially open at approximately a 45-degree angle through the winter.
Simply closing every valve on a backflow preventer is not necessarily correct.
We see damaged backflows every spring from systems where someone shut off the water but did not properly winterize the assembly. Culinary vs. secondary setup is covered in our pressurized irrigation (secondary water) guide.
Blowing Out the Main Line
Once the water is shut off and the backflow is prepared correctly, the compressor should be connected to the irrigation system at an appropriate blowout point.
Whenever possible, we recommend blowing out from the main line.
We have seen inexperienced contractors attempt to connect compressed air through a sprinkler head. While it is technically possible to move air backward through parts of an irrigation system, this restricts airflow through the valve and is not an efficient way to perform a normal winterization.
If your sprinkler system does not have a proper blowout port, having one installed is usually a worthwhile one-time improvement. It makes every future winterization easier and more effective. That is a common add-on during sprinkler repair or a tune-up.
Blowing Out Each Sprinkler Zone
Once compressed air is connected, each sprinkler zone is activated individually.
One of our most important rules is to run the first zone considerably longer than the remaining zones. We generally run the first station three to five times longer because the air is not only clearing that sprinkler zone, but also pushing water out of the irrigation main line for the first time.
Once the main line has been cleared, the remaining zones usually require much less time.
Certain sprinkler heads also take longer than others. Rotary nozzles such as MP Rotators and Rain Bird RVANs have lower flow rates, which means air and water leave the system more slowly. Drip irrigation zones are similar: emitters restrict flow, so it often helps to open the end of a drip line so air can move freely.
Why Compressor Size Matters
One of the biggest differences between professional and DIY winterization is the compressor.
A simple way to understand it is to imagine trying to clear a cup of water by blowing through a straw. Now imagine using a leaf blower.
Both are technically moving air, but the amount of air being moved is completely different.
That is essentially what happens when comparing a small homeowner compressor to a commercial winterization compressor.
Airflow is measured in CFM, or cubic feet per minute. For professional sprinkler winterization, we prefer equipment capable of roughly 70 CFM or more, such as tow-behind or truck-mounted compressors.
A small air compressor may still eventually clear portions of a residential system, but the process can take two or three times as long and may not move enough air to clear the system as thoroughly.
Pressure also matters. More pressure is not always better. Incorrectly using compressed air can damage irrigation components.
With professional equipment, a normal residential winterization usually takes us around 20 to 30 minutes. Using small DIY equipment can turn the same job into a much longer process.
Can You Rely on Automatic Sprinkler Drains?
Automatic drains are a good thing to have.
Stop-and-waste valves and products such as King Innovation automatic drains can provide additional protection by allowing water to leave the system when pressure drops.
The problem is that no mechanical component should be assumed to work perfectly forever.
If an automatic drain functions correctly for several years and then fails closed one winter, the homeowner may have no indication that anything is wrong until freeze damage occurs.
That is why we generally prefer to blow systems out even when drains are installed. Winterization is relatively inexpensive, while repairs are usually not.
Do Secondary Water Systems Need to Be Winterized?
Yes.
A common misconception in Utah is that if the city or irrigation district shuts down the secondary water supply, the sprinkler system is already winterized.
It is not.
Shutting down the secondary supply prevents new water from entering the property, but there may still be water throughout the homeowner's sprinkler pipes, valves, filters and sprinkler heads.
From a winterization standpoint, secondary-water and culinary-water systems are not dramatically different. Learn how those supplies differ in our secondary water guide.
On many secondary-water systems, we connect the compressor near the irrigation filter. On many culinary-water systems, the connection is near the backflow preventer or another dedicated blowout port.
The objective is the same: remove as much trapped water as reasonably possible from components that can be damaged by freezing.
What If It Freezes Before You Winterize?
If freezing temperatures arrive before your sprinkler system has been winterized, don't assume the system is automatically destroyed.
Freeze damage depends on how cold it gets, how long temperatures remain below freezing, how much water is trapped in the system and which components are exposed.
However, you should take action quickly.
The first thing we recommend is shutting off the sprinkler water supply. After that, run a sprinkler cycle briefly. This can help relieve pressure and distribute some of the water throughout the system instead of leaving certain sections completely full and pressurized.
That is not a winterization, but it is better than doing nothing.
Afterward, have the system properly winterized as soon as possible.
What Should You Do After Winterization?
Once the system has been winterized, the irrigation water supply should remain shut off until spring.
Most sprinkler valves can simply remain in their normal closed position. On a backflow preventer, however, ball valves and test cocks may need to be left partially open depending on manufacturer requirements. The irrigation shutoff itself should remain completely closed.
The sprinkler controller should also be placed in the OFF, rain-off or hibernation setting.
You usually do not need to unplug the controller. Leaving it powered allows it to retain its settings while preventing unnecessary activation of valve solenoids throughout the winter.
In the spring, a system tune-up is the counterpart to fall winterization: turn the water back on, check for leaks, and adjust heads before summer watering ramps up.
How Much Should Sprinkler Winterization Cost in Utah?
Pricing varies depending on the size and complexity of the system, but homeowners should generally be cautious of both extremes.
Paying more than around $200 for a normal residential winterization would be relatively expensive in our market.
On the other hand, if someone is advertising a $40 or $50 winterization, we would ask questions.
Are they licensed and insured? What kind of compressor are they using? Do they have trained technicians and a repeatable winterization process? Can they install a proper blowout port if your system needs one? Will the company still be operating next spring if there is a problem?
As with most home services, you generally get what you pay for.
Storm Sprinklers serves homeowners throughout Utah County and Salt Lake County, including Provo, Orem, Lehi, American Fork, Pleasant Grove, Saratoga Springs, Eagle Mountain, Spanish Fork, Draper, Sandy, South Jordan, Riverton, Murray and Salt Lake City.
Our winterization pricing starts at $125 for returning customers and customers receiving eligible discounts, with standard pricing beginning higher depending on the property. Current online booking for most homes starts at $149 up to 8 zones. See sprinkler winterization service or instant pricing for the quote that matches your system.
That allows us to use professional equipment and send trained, background-checked technicians while operating a company that will still be available when customers need service again in the spring. Storm Shield maintenance plans include winterization plus a spring tune-up if you prefer not to book à la carte every fall.
Three Rules for a Good Sprinkler Winterization
If there are only three things you remember about sprinkler winterization, these would be ours.
First, blow the system out from the main line whenever possible. Good airflow through the main allows you to clear the system properly instead of trying to work backward through individual sprinkler zones.
Second, run the first sprinkler zone significantly longer than the rest. The first zone is doing double duty because it is helping evacuate the water sitting in the irrigation main line.
Third, drain the main line upstream of the backflow preventer. It is easy to thoroughly blow out everything downstream while accidentally leaving water trapped in another vulnerable portion of the system.
And there is one additional rule worth mentioning: make sure your irrigation shutoff valve actually works.
Winterization itself is not particularly complicated. Most problems happen because someone does not fully understand how the irrigation system is configured or tries to take shortcuts.
For Utah homeowners, spending a little over $100 to properly protect an irrigation system is inexpensive compared with discovering cracked valves, a damaged backflow preventer or a major leak after freezing temperatures arrive.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should you winterize sprinklers in Utah?
We recommend that most homeowners along the Wasatch Front winterize in late September, rather than waiting until the first freeze is already in the forecast. Utah weather is unpredictable from year to year, so it is safer to finish a few weeks early than to scramble for an appointment the night temperatures drop below freezing.
Is shutting the sprinkler water off the same as winterizing?
No. Shutting off the water supply is not the same as winterizing. Water can still sit in sprinkler lines, valve manifolds, filters, backflow preventers, and other components. If that trapped water freezes, it expands and can crack rigid irrigation parts.
What happens if you don't winterize your sprinkler system?
Sometimes the damage is a cracked fitting or leaking valve that shows up in the spring. Other times it is much more expensive: freeze-damaged backflow preventers, broken filters, cracked manifolds, or even interior water damage if a failed shutoff keeps feeding the system. We have seen a single incident cost around $15,000.
Do secondary water systems still need a blowout?
Yes. When the city or irrigation district shuts down secondary water, new water stops entering the property, but water can still remain in pipes, valves, filters, and heads. Secondary-water and culinary-water systems both need trapped water removed before a hard freeze.
Can you rely on automatic sprinkler drains?
Automatic drains and stop-and-waste valves are helpful, but they should not be treated as foolproof. If a drain fails closed one winter, you may not know until freeze damage occurs. We generally still blow systems out even when drains are installed.
Why does compressor size matter for a sprinkler blowout?
Airflow, measured in CFM, determines how thoroughly water is pushed out of the system. Professional winterization typically uses roughly 70 CFM or more. A small homeowner compressor can take two or three times as long and may not clear the system as thoroughly. Pressure also matters: more pressure is not always better.
What should you do if it freezes before you winterize?
Don't assume the system is destroyed. Shut off the sprinkler water supply, then run a brief sprinkler cycle to relieve pressure. That is not a winterization, but it is better than doing nothing. Have the system properly winterized as soon as possible.
How much should sprinkler winterization cost in Utah?
Paying more than around $200 for a normal residential winterization is relatively expensive in our market, while $40–$50 ads deserve questions about licensing, insurance, compressor size, and whether the company will still be around in the spring. Storm Sprinklers starts at $125 for returning customers and eligible discounts, with standard pricing beginning higher depending on the property.
What are the three most important winterization rules?
Blow the system out from the main line whenever possible, run the first sprinkler zone significantly longer than the rest, and drain the main line upstream of the backflow preventer. Also confirm that your irrigation shutoff valve actually works.
Schedule Sprinkler Winterization in Utah
Storm Sprinklers provides professional sprinkler winterization and sprinkler blowout services throughout Utah County and Salt Lake County.
If you're finished watering for the season, scheduling before freezing weather arrives is the safest way to protect your sprinkler system.
Book winterization online, read more on our winterization service page, or browse other Utah sprinkler guides.
About the Author
Austin Green is the founder and owner of Storm Sprinklers, an irrigation system repair and installation company based in Orem, UT. With 4 years of experience in the business of irrigation, he has learned the ins and outs of the technical side of lawn sprinkler systems as well as the economics of water efficiency. Austin knows what Utah homeowners are looking for in their lawn sprinkler systems, and writes guides to help them get what they need.
